Is Rastoke Croatia a watery fantasy or a village of fantasy waters? Either way, Rastoke is memorable for its beautiful aquatic location midst limestone-rich water courses, cascades and waterfalls. Paths snake their way through green fields alongside historical watermills of innovative construction. Enjoy the sights and the spray and then lie back on the grass to enjoy the peace as you take time out from your Croatian road trip.
The Croatia road trip started by driving to coastal Rovinj from the northern regions of Austria, Italy or Slovenia. It was then just a short drive from Rovinj to Roman Pula. The Croatian road trip continues by driving inland from Pula to the rather unique Rastoke village near Slunje. Rastoke is located about 40kms from the more widely known lakes and waterfalls of the Plitvice National Park. Rastoke, as is Plitvice, is located in the Dinaric karst region. Approximately half of Croatia is defined by the limestone karst and so there is plenty of it on display en route.
Rastoke village is especially green and surrounded by rivulets, cascades, waterfalls and a sea of spray. Stroll alongside the streams across wooden bridges as you navigate your route between waterfalls and old infrastructure that is the heritage of Rastoke.
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Enjoy the Road Trip from Pula to Rastoke
The Google map that follows shows the typical route out of Pula to Rastoke.
The most direct way out of Pula is to take the E751 (A8 toll road) through Vodnjan and head for Rijeka. It is a quality road and the elevation remains consistent around 200 metres above sea level until you approach Dolenja Vas where the elevation starts to rise towards 400 metres . This town is on the fringe of llimestone uplift which is associated with the Dinaric Alps.
The surrounding landscape then rises to approximately 1000 metres. However, once through this very easily drivable section the road again returns to sea level elevation as you enter the coastal ribbon near Rijeka.
If you wish to take the far more scenic route along the coast then continue either on the E751 and turn onto the R64 near Lovrin towards Vozolici. The road becomes the R66 through Plomin where you will slip under the southern tip of the limestone encountered on the other route. The R66 remains at a consistent elevation of about 200 metres right along the coast and it won’t be long until you are picking up sights of the beautiful beaches, resorts and holiday houses along this lovely stretch of the Croatian coastline. Use Google maps to click on any number of these lovely coastal towns along this stretch and see what they have to offer.
Soon as you look along the coastline Rijeka will come into view. The E751 becomes the E65 when leaving Rijeka. The flat coastal strip quickly gives way to a change in topography as seen in the image when passing Trsat Castle.
The road again passes through tunnels to navigate the range which rises to about 1,000 metres. Once through the tunnels the road trip settles onto the excellent E65 (tolled) across a plateau with a consistent elevation of 400 metres. The E65 is an example of the excellent toll road system for a drive across Croatia. Comprehensive road-side services are always available.
The E65 continues as a toll road to Karlovac where the D1 is used to turn south and on to Rastoke. It pays to get off the tolled roads in any country and experience the unanticipated. For example, leave the E65 at Vrbovsko on to the R42. It was quite apparent that the houses were not of the condition or style of those on the wealthier coastal strip that we had seen earlier.
The R42 rejoined the E71 for the remainder of the drive to Rastoke.
We realised deeper into the drive that some of these houses were no longer occupied. When driving through the Balkans, echoes of the Balkans war are never far away.
Such was the case of a little hamlet named Mjesto Primislje. Something terrible happened here. People died here. The old man we met didn’t want to talk about it. We didn’t press him. We just stood in disbelief at what we were observing.
Mjesto Primislje
You’ll can see similar reminders of the Balkan’s war in our post From Kupari Resort to Abandoned War Ruins. Kupari is quite close to Dubrovnik.
It was time to drive on to Rastoke, our destination for this day’s touring.
Rastoke
Rastoke is a venue of scenic beauty. It is sufficient for many visitors to just meander around the village without spoiling the experience by taxing the mind. However, for those who are inquisitive there is much to ponder over. Rastoke has a mediaeval history which is evidenced by its wooden construction and unusual water mills. There is much opportunity to apply the sciences in relation to Rastoke’s hydrology, the geology that underscores the distribution of waterways, waterfalls and cascades, and the physics behind the operation of the mills.
But Rastoke is above all a place of sylvan tranquility. The few images below are from a large collection. The difficulty was not using all of them.
Video Link
These images can be further appreciated by viewing the scenes in our video. Just click on the link https://youtu.be/YCh9VwDjrVM
The Sources of Water and Waterfalls at Rastoke
Many areas covered by beds of limestone have a specific topography due mainly to the work of underground water. This topography has been named a ‘Karst’ in recognition of its predominance in the Dinaruc Alps. The surface topography of a Karst is rough and often dry because the rainwater quickly finds its way underground due to the presence of caves and sinkholes. The subterranean caves and sinkholes can also cause the rivers to fragment from their expected paths. Such is the case of the Slunjčica River. Its source is in central Croatia where underground streams in elevated areas have surfaced as springs via sinkholes and caves. The Slunjčica River flows partly underground until it emerges near Rastoke. The Korana River from near Plitvice Lakes receives the Slunjcaca River at Rastoke which creates the conditions for the waterfalls.
In limestone districts rivers and streams often flow along underground paths. Such is the case of the Slunjčica River. Consequently, dissolved carbon dioxide remains in the water and reacts with the water to form carbonic acid. The acidic water acts on the calcium carbonate to form the soluble bi-carbonate. This is removed by the circulating water resulting in the formation of caves.
Alternatively, when the water reaches the surface as is the case of the smaller Slunjčica River at Rastoke, the carbon dioxide evaporates and escapes. This results, not in the formation of the soluble bi-carbonate, but a precipitation of the calcium carbonate. The precipitate hardens into a spongy, stringy rock known as tufa and a more massive, compact, often banded rock, called travertine. The Slunjčica River cascades over these naturally occurring obstructions on its path to the Korana River, producing the watery displays Rastoke has become known for. This precipitation of calcium carbonate is often very materially assisted by the activity of certain algae. Also, if leaves, mosses, etc., are lying in water containing abundant CaC03 in solution, they also become coated with carbonate of lime. Waterfall “Buk,” known for the noise it creates as it descends into the Korana canyon, is the largest waterfall in Rastoke and a key attraction. The cascading water from the Slunjčica River forms a fine mist, producing a beautiful rainbow effect in sunlight.
The Watermills at Rastoke
The oldest watermill in the village of Rastoke dates back to the 17th century, while most existing mills are from the 19th and 20th centuries. At the time Rastoke was designated as a rural unit. There were 22 mills, seven basins for rinsing carpets, and 28 houses with outbuildings. The mills ground grain and linens were washed in the basins below the waterfalls. Rastoke is not entirely free of charge. A fee is payable to enter the Mill and its surrounds.
Spoon mills, or Hiäre, are traditional mills suited for hilly karst areas. They are built at the edges of land where water falls vertically between 3 to 5 meters. Unlike paddle mills, spoon mills rely on the force of falling water to power the millstone. The weight of the water for the time it impacts on a spoon produces a change in momentum which translates to a rotation of the shaft.
The Museum at Rastoke
A small museum at Rastoke displays the village’s culture and society. The museum focuses on the lives, dwellings and skills that were in place to make the clothing, foodstuffs and tools necessary for living.
Conclusion to Rastoke For Waterfalls, Watermills And Tranquil Beauty
Your drive across Croatia from Pula will certainly be rewarded when you reach the beauty and peace of Rastoke. Parking is plentiful but usually paid between May–November (8 am–7 pm). The tickets must be displayed.
Rastoke is an especially green village surrounded by rivulets, cascades and waterfalls. Stroll alongside the streams across wooden bridges as you navigate your route between waterfalls and old infrastructure that is the heritage of Rastoke. There is quite a lot of spray throughout Rastoke and so if windy it would be advisable to wear some water-proof clothing.
Rastoke is sometimes considered, albeit unfairly, as the appetizer to the the main course, the lakes system at Plitvice National Park. If you enjoyed the post describing Rastoke, you won’t be disappointed by considering the post on Plitvice.
