Visit Pula And Its Roman Past On Your Croatian Road Trip

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Pula is only a very short drive from Rovinj and so this description of the second part of the Croatian road trip concentrates on the destination rather than the journey. Pula resembles an outdoor Roman museum and any visit to Croatia should have Pula on its itinerary. You will enjoy a stroll through Pula and its Roman attractions which integrate naturally into the streetscape. The authenticity of the Roman attractions, such as the Pula amphitheater, bring Pula’s past to life. You will get a sense of Pula’s culture of some 2,000 years ago.

The first post describing this road trip across Croatia can be found at Croatia Road Trip Starting at Rovinj. Rovinj is a very attractive small city and glossy websites and colourful advertisements rightfully exhibit its natural beauty and location. Pula is not in any way unattractive, but its allure lies not only in it scenic attractions but more strongly in its link to its Roman past. Roman Pula stands in the face of the visitor and exhibits the traditional constructions we associate with Rome. For that reason there is room for a visit to both Rovinj and Pula.

Pula is worth visiting. It is possible in one day to visit all the Roman attractions scattered compactly around its ancient old town. Pula’s attraction for many tourists is the beauty of its Roman past – a cultural and historical beauty. Spend longer if you wish to base a holiday in Pula and enjoy its outdoors.

The Short Drive from Rovinj to Pula

Pula is a coastal and maritime city south of Rovinj and is located in the Istria region of Croatia. The Rovinj to Pula distance is only 41 kilometres and the drive to Pula will only take about 40 minutes. You will drive through southern Slovenia to get there. The roads are good and the topography is generally hilly.

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Typical topography of inland southern Slovenia and northern Croatia

However, as the drive to Pula continues deeper into northern Croatia the landscape generally flattens out.

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Driving continues across flatter terrain deeper into Croatia

Finally, there is very little undulation between Rovinj and Pula.

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The Rovinj-Pula road

Along the Road – Historical Kuzan Park

One of the interesting attractions along the drive to Pula is the historical Kuzan Park.

Alicia Fagerving, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b9/Park_ka%C5%BEuna_in_Vodnjan_05.jpg

The Kažun Park was opened to preserve existing huts. The huts at Kažun were round structures made from dry stone and comprised one room with a conical roof. They were constructed principally from limestone which had been removed from the fields to make land available for farming. The remoteness of the fields made them valuable as shelters.

Pula Attractions

There are many things to see in Pula but most engaging are the Roman attractions. Many of the Roman buildings are still in a condition that justifies a visit. And to reinforce what was written earlier, they bring Roman Pula back to life.

The Pula Amphitheatre

The quite short drive to Pula from Rovinj ends with entry into Pula at the site of the city’s most prominent and recognisable attraction – the Pula Amphitheatre. The amphitheatre is located on Flavijevska Ulica which provides an adjacent carpark for easy visiting.

The Roman Amphitheatre was constructed over three stages during the term of the first century AD. Much can be inferred about the amphitheatre’s construction by just looking at it. It was made of limestone as would be predicted given its location. The weathering of the limestone is also definitive. It is not uncommon to see fossilised shells of marine organisms peeking out through the exposed rock.

The immediately recognisable features of the Pula Amphitheatre are the arcades and arches that surround the arena. The entire structure is strengthened by each arch resting on the impost of a pier on either side. Each arch not only sets its own position but strengthens the arches on either side. The keystone is locked into position by the weight above it. This is the only point on the arch that bears the full weight. At each voussoir (arch segment) the weight resolves into both vertical and horizontal components, thereby reducing the downward force on the arch at each point.

The 20,000 capacity amphitheatre had three elements. The first element related to the spectators. Three tiers were built to accommodate the spectators who would watch the gladiators and other spectacles perform in the central arena.

The second element, the central arena, had elliptical dimensions and an estimate of its size being that of a football field.

The third element, the chambers beneath the arena, was hewn out of the rock along the length of the arena. The chambers now display Roman relics and equipment. However, during the first century these chambers served more disturbing purposes; the holding of wild animals and the disposal of dead gladiators.

Access to and from the arena was via a long passageway constructed in typical Roman style featuring an extended barrel vault.

It was along this passageway that the gladiators and wild animals would make their way to the arena. The passageway was guarded by an iron gate, the ‘Porta Libitina’. Libitina was the Roman goddess of burials.

This gate provided the exit from the arena for the gladiators and wild beasts that had been killed during the contests.

The amphitheatre is now used for concerts and performances.

Valerijin Park

Valerijin Park is just across from the amphitheatre. It is one of several small parks in the area. It contains two sites not often seen.

The first is a tiny ‘urinator’

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Male convenience

where the male user is exposed from the chest upward. But as small and as apparently insignificant as it appears, payment is required for its use and paid to a permanent attendant.

The second attraction is far more uplifting. It is the inscription left by Mark Twain during his visit to Pula.

‘Travel is fatal to predudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness’

Mark Twain

Forum Square

A stroll away from the Amphitheatre along the Riva which defines the waterfront,

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Along the Riva, waterfront and docks

and past the boat moorings and the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, leads to the 1st Century AD Forum Square, the Roman centre of Pula.

The Temple of Augustus

The Temple of Augustus in Forum Square is one of the highlights in Pula of a preserved Roman building. It is located adjacent to the Pula Communal Palace. The Temple of Augustus is the only fully preserved temple in Pula. The Temple was originally dedicated to the goddess Roma and Emperor Augustus and was erected between 2 BC and 14 AD.

The ruins of the Temple of Augustus exemplify the architecture of most Corinthian Roman temples of the period. Entry into the temple was through a door from the porch entrance or vestibule which is located at one end of the temple. The order of classical architecture was primarily distinguished by the capital. In the Corinthian order the capital on top of the column was decorated with sculpture of acanthus leaves, while the columns rested on independent bases and not the stylobate which was common to all the columns. The columns were wider at the base and were aligned as a short colonnade to support the entablature, which is the horizontal section resting on the columns.

The entablature consisted of the architrave which spanned the width of the temple and which rested on the capitals on the top of each column. The frieze is a horizontal, non-structural, decorative element that sits above the architrave. The frieze of this temple was sculptured and inscribed, but a lot to the detail on the front facade has been lost.
The third member of the entablature, the cornice, is a horizontal member that sits above the frieze, and in this case is the base of the triangular pediment above it. The pediment enclosed the tympanum which was probably richly sculptured.

Pula Communal Palace

The Palace is not of Roman origin but has been included because it occupies a location that has been used for public buildings since Ancient Rome. The palace also exhibits some classical elements. It was the site of a triad of Roman temples of which only the Temple of Augustus remains. The palace dates from 1296 as evidenced by an inscription in its facade when Pula exercised self-government. The Venetians extended its purpose through their years of oversight making it the quarters of the Duke.

The palace was erected on the remains of the Roman Temple of Diana, one of the triad of temples that formerly populated the Forum Square. As is the case with many of the buildings across Europe, the Palace was developed and altered since the Romanesque period through to the Baroque, being restored in the 16th Century.

The classical influence can be seen by the omnipresence of the semi-circular arches. They appear between pillars across the facade and behind the facade. The composite capitals are also of the classical order on which volutes of the Ionic order have combined with a simple Corinthian element.

The Baroque appears in the form of the two ground floor windows on the building’s right hand side. The elaborate pediment above the centralised balcony is also a Baroque feature, as are the balcony windows. The ornamentation in the form of sculptured mythological figures on the right pilaster (Telamon) might also be attributed as Baroque decoration. Look for similar decoration (Siren) on the right edge of the rear of the building.

The rear of the building displays the remains of the Romanesque and Gothic periods. A Gothic arch is inset into the robust Romanesque wall and pillars.

There are various exhibitions in the Square throughout the year as well as a display of Roman mosaics.

Before leaving, it is enjoyable to view the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements of the facades of some of the other buildings in Forum Square and the laneways leading away from it.

Agrippina’s House

Agrippina’s house is the grey façade on the left side of the street opposite the red shades.

Agrippina’s House entrance by google-screenshot 2025-07-22 120844.jpg

The Roman residential building is said to have belonged to the mother (15–59 AD) of Emperor Nero. The association is not corroborated by archaeological evidence but rather by a relief fragment that is believed to depict her likeness. The location of the residence off Forum Square and its size indicates it was one of prestige and wealth. The remains of archaeological excavations are still present across the grounds revealing anticipated Roman remains in the form of mosaics, columns, and stone decorations

The Square is also a starting point for the climb up to the Kastel.

The Kastel (Castle)

A continuous but not strenuous climb

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Ascending towards the Kastel

up Uspon Konzula Istranina leads to the Kastel. It now serves as Pula’s Historical and Maritime Museum of Istria.

The star-shaped castle with four bastions was built in 1630. The Venetians commissioned the building of the Castle to protect the city and its harbour because of the great significance of maritime trade in the North Adriatic. Although built in the 17th Century, the Kastel has its Roman roots having been built on a prehistoric hill-fort where a small Roman military garrison was later located.

The Triumphal Arch of the Sergii

The 1st Century Triumphal Arch of the Sergii is south of the castle grounds. The Arch is a major first century BC gate through the city walls. The Arch is most easily reached by walking away from the forum along Ul. Sergijevaca. The Arch is the entrance to Ul. Kandlerova.

The Arch of the Sergii was erected between c. 29–27 BC. It served as the entrance to the forum, now identified as Forum Square. It was common across the Roman Empire to construct a Triumphal Arch at the entrance to the forum. The principal purpose of the Arch in Pula was to commemorate the Sergii family and particularly Lucius Sergius Lepidus.

The arch was constructed by a pair of parallel Corinthian columns supported by piers. The adjoining piers supported the archway on the sides of which can be seen figures depicting winged victories. The horizontal entablature featured a prominent cornice and frieze. The flanks of the frieze were sculptured with cupids and festoons. The centre of the frieze featured an inscription; ‘SALVIA..SIVMASERGIDES..PECVNIA’ being a reference to the payment (pecuniary) of the arch by Salvia, the wife of Lucius.

The attic, situated above the frieze and cornice, is also inscribed, again with reference to Lucius and Salvia. The inscription to Lucius may be referring to his heroism while the Latin inscription for Salvia may, possibly, be interpreted as her being posthumous.

The remaining sites to be visited can be reached by walking anticlockwise from the Arch of Sergii along Carrarina Ul. The first is the Gate of Hercules.

The Gate of Hercules and Remains of Historical Town Wall

The Gate of Hercules is the oldest gate in Pula and is flanked by a tower on either side. The crude masonry of the towers is different from that of the historical wall that adjoins the gate. It is therefore reasonable to conclude that they were added later, perhaps during the mediaeval, to strengthen the city’s defences. The arch itself is constructed from fashioned limestone blocks.

At the apex of the arch is a relief of Hercules head. It is difficult to see in this image but intelligible when the image is at full resolution. Directly underneath the head and running along the bottom of the arch is an inscription. The purpose of the arch has not been commented on but a reasonable inference is that it served as the gateway through the city wall and also to the small theatre behind it.

Further along Carrarina Ul are the Twin Gates.

The Twin Gates (Porta Gemina)

The Twin Gates at Pula, or Porta Gemina, was the one of the gates that provided entry into the city through the city wall. It is located near the entrance to the Archaeological Museum.
The Twin Gates were constructed between the 2nd and 3rd centuries.

The name of the gate is derived from the Latin ‘porta’, meaning gate, and “gemina’ meaning double or twin. The gate is not dissimilar to the Arch of Sergii in its construction except that the columns are engaged with the piers that support the entablature and the cornice is mounted on an undecorated frieze. The Porta Gemina was one of the main entrances into Pula. The gate appears as though it is embedded into remnants of the mediaeval city wall, but the ancient city walls at the time of build can be seen in the background by looking through the gate.

Octagonal Mausoleum

Just behind the Twin Gates is a small Roman Theatre and opposite the Twin Gates is the Octagonal Roman Mausoleum. The eight-sided mausoleum dates from the 1st century. The remnant we see today formed part of its base and so it is believed that the original construction was nine meters high.

Brief History of Pula

Pula has a pre-Roman history but became a Roman colony between 46-4S BC. Pula’s location made it ideal as a port site and offered the Romans substantial jurisdiction from its harbour. Pula was destroyed but rebuilt in the first century following Octavian’s victory in the Battle of Actium https://www.britannica.com/event/Battle-of-Actium-ancient-Roman-history

Fingerprints of Roman construction are seen throughout the city in the form of semi-circular arches and barrel vaults that characterise the aqueduct, sewerage system, city walls and gates.

Pula was devastated by the Ostro-goths following the fall of the Western Roman Empire. During the sixth century Pula was supervised by a military leader appointed by Constantinople and benefitted by its occupation by the Byzantine navy.

A More Detailed History of Pula (read more)

Pula Croatia Things to See

Zerostrasse
The Zerostrasse is a labyrinth of subterranean tunnels used for protection c. WW1
Pula’s Roman Mosaic “The Punishment of Dirce”
Roman mosaic that features scenes from Greek mythology.
Cape Kamenjak
Nature park about 10 km south of Pula featuring rocky beaches, biking and walking trail, snorkelling, cliff diving and sunbathing.
Verudela Peninsula
Popular for beach resorts and family activities with 130-year-old Austro-Hungarian fort, swimming and snorkelling.
Brijuni National Park
Former summer residence of Yugoslav President Tito reached by a short boat ride from nearby Fažana (20 minutes from Pula). A group of 14 islands with Roman ruins, exotic animals, and a safari park.
Pula Market (Tržnica)

Source ‘Things to See’: chatgpt

Conclusion

Pula is worth visiting due to the variety and authenticity of its Roman attractions. They are culturally and historically substantive The Roman Amphitheatre justifies a visit on its own.

Some of the remnants described above are part of the current streetscape and much of the movement around the city is on smooth pavements. Many would consider Pula a safe venue because the main attractions are within the busy city precinct.
Use Google Maps or maps.me to accurately check the locations of the attractions as it is quite possible to walk past them. A Hop on-Hop off bus service runs through peak tourist season.

Optional Detailed History of Pula (cont)

The following is summarised from public information posted by the Archaeological Museum of Istria at the entrance to St. Theodor’s Quarter.
“History of the City of Pula.
The Archaeological Museum of Istria conducted rescue archaeological excavation at this location between 2005 and 2009 over an area of about 4,000 square meters with the greatest depth of around eight meters. The excavation resulted in a discovery of numerous remains from various cultural periods during the three-thousand-years long history of the city of Pula.

Roman Period
Roman buildings are spread over the entire surface of the archaeological site. The oldest ones have been built immediately after the establishment of the Roman colony of Pula (46 – 45 BC), but have been demolished after the fire at the end of the 5th century AD. In the south-eastern part there are remains of a sacral complex. Amidst the open, with a wall enclosed sacred area (area sacra) containing a well that was erected over a source of freshwater spring, massive walls with temple features have been preserved. This temple is connected to a previously discovered inscription that speaks of the construction of Hercules’ shrine. The find of a stone block with a relief presentation of a bludgeon, one of Hercules’ symbols, definitely confirms that in this area there was a temple dedicated to this mythical hero, the protector of the Roman colony Pula.
The western part of the site contains remains of a part of a lavishly arranged city residential house (domus). Several rooms for various purposes with frescoes, stucco, marble decorations and mosaics have been discovered around the central yard. The house in its southern part had its own bathroom and a sauna with furnaces. In a section of one of the rooms, a small indoor shrine with a black and white mosaic that contains an altar, stylised shells and the inscription Salus which is the name of the Roman goddess of health, have been preserved. Remains of public baths (thermae publicae) spread to the east of the domus. Many parts of this building have been secondarily utilised during the Late Antique construction, after its demolition in the 5th century AD. On the surface of the thermal and temple complex, mostly whole amphorae have been discovered, thus making this the largest continental find in the world. After they were no longer used for the transport of wine, in this zone the amphorae have been utilised for construction works for drainage and levelling of an uneven terrain. Despite having diverse purposes, all the three mentioned Roman complexes represented parts of the same totality connected to the cult of water, cleanliness and health.

Late Antique and Medieval Period
In the period of Late Antiquity (5th — 7th century AD.) this area was used for the production of olive oil. At the same time, above the uttermost southern part of the Roman baths, a single-aisle early Christian church was erected. Numerous finds of parts of its stone church furniture with early Christian and pre-Romanesque features, from the end of the 5th to the beginning of the 9th century relate to its interior. This church was demolished in the 15th century at the latest, when a much more spacious church of St. Theodore was erected on the same location.

Late Medieval and Modern History Period
The Late Gothic church of St. Theodore with the appertaining female Benedictine convent was built in 1458. The entire sacral complex included a church, bell-tower and the buildings of the convent with an open courtyard. In this context, a significant number of parts of glazed tableware has been found. A cemetery has been discovered beyond the church, and 11 crypts have been found inside the church which contained numerous devotional medallions. In 1789, the nuns left the Church and the convent of St .Theodore which was demolished in 1873 during the construction of the Austro-Hungarian barracks. In the 20th century, between the two World Wars, a warehouse of a tobacco factory was built in the courtyard which burnt down in a fire in 2002.