The short drive from Rastoke to Plitvice National Park which is located within beautiful woodlands is rewarded by the spectacular display of waterfalls, cascades, limestone gorges and terraces of Plitvice Lakes.
A series of upper and lower interconnected lakes which differ in elevation produce gravitational flows through gorges that are sometimes bounded by vertical limestone cliffs. A well constructed boardwalk makes for easy walking through the park between the lakes. A ferry operates along the longest of the upper lakes and hiking is encouraged along natural trails.
Plitvice Lakes is one of the most visited venues in Croatia. Consequently, the question as to whether Plitvice is worth visiting has already been answered. So attention is drawn to how to best spend time at Plitvice. Some will wish to meander along its walkways while others will want to head for Plitvice’s range of hiking trails. Given that most visitors will be on day trips, we have styled our post for those who wish to just enjoy the lakes, waterfalls, cascades and terraces. We have also kept in mind those who wish to delve a little bit deeper into questions such as how the lake system works, the origin of Plitvice lakes, how they formed, and how Plitvice Lakes relate to the broader Croatian terrain.
Table of contents
- The Lakes at Plitvice National Park
- The Upper Lakes (Gornja jezera) at Plitvice National Park
- How Plitvice Lakes and Waterfalls Formed
- Facilities at Plitvice Lakes National Park
- Getting to Plitvice Lakes – The Short Drive from Rastoke
- Conclusion to Plitvice: Explore Waterfalls and Terraced Lakes From A Glacial Past
The Lakes at Plitvice National Park
The park at Plitvice Croatia was declared a national park in 1949 and covers around 300 square kilometers. Sixteen lakes step down into the lake adjacent through a series of terraces with a total fall of about 150 metres. Waterfalls and cascades decorate the lakes as the water flows through a series of natural travertine and tufa barriers. The attraction for visitors is that many of these features at Plitvice lakes are within touching distance along a board walk.
There are two sections of lakes at Plitvice; the Lower Lakes and the Upper Lakes.
The Walk Through the Lower Lakes (Donja Jezera) at Plitvice National Park
If you enjoyed the water fest at Rastoke you can certainly look forward to a repeat on a larger scale. You are sure to enjoy walking in a beautifully wooded national park set against a background of spray and noise from waterfalls and cascades.
The Lower Lakes are accessible via Entrance 1, and the area is known for its wooden walkways. These have been constructed at water level, offering close-up views of the emerald-green waters, cascades, and surrounding forests.
An information board near Entrance 1 displays a variety of walks that are available through the park, ranging from quite manageable to advanced. Many travellers, particularly those on a day trip, choose the popular walking route through the Lower lakes on well-marked timber boardwalks which have been constructed at water level. The narrow boardwalks utilise a slat construction and require flat soles. Nevertheless, patience needs to be shown, particularity in high season. This walk provides views of the waterfalls almost within touching distance of the four pretty Lower Lakes, including the 80m waterfall Veliki Slap. The trail then proceeds past the small lakes and cascades in the direction of Lake Kozjak.
The lower lakes at the northern end of the park are formed over limestone, a form of calcium carbonate. The calcite and aragonite minerals which compose limestone are relatively soft and so the section reveals its lessened resistance to millennia of physical and chemical reshaping. Deep valleys and craggy outcrops contrast to the smooth transition of flowing water. It is in this section that the lakes are more likely to be separated by natural travertine (tufa) barriers, enhanced by the action of moss, algae, and bacteria.
The Four Lower Lakes at Plitvice National Park
Novakovića Brod
There are four lower lakes at Plitvice. Novakovića Brod is the lowest at and elevation of 503 metres, and the first encountered after entering the park, is . This lake marks the source of the Korana River which has an impact on Rastoke. One of the park’s major attractions, the 78-metre Veliki Slap, falls over the rugged limestone cliff face into Novakovića Brod.
Kaluđerovac Lake
The next lake encountered along the track is Kaluđerovac Lake. This lake has an elevation of just a few metres above that of Novakovića Brod and receives the overflow from Gavanovac Lake.
Views from elevation show the extent of the lake and the limestone cliffs that are a feature of Plitvice.
The board walk between Kaluđerovac Lake and Gavanovac Lake provides an opportunity to observe the cave that has formed from the erosion of Kaluđerovac Lake’s limestone cliff and the formation of the tufa barrier between the two lakes.
Kaluđerovac Lake boardwalk exposes the Supljara cave in the limestone cliff and the tufa barriers between the lakes
Gavanovac Lake
Gavanovac Lake takes its water from Milanovac lake which flows above the Galvanovac by just a few metres. Nevertheless, it is sufficient difference in elevation for gravity to feed water across the tufa barriers that have developed over the years.
The limestone bedding is quite distinctive in the cliff faces along the valley.
Milanovac Lake
Milanoviac is the most elevated lake of Plitvice’s lower lakes is Milanovac lake. This lake receives water from the lowest, but largest, of the Upper lakes, Kozjak lake. The fall from Kozjak lake is about 10 metres.
The waterfall at the top of Milanovac Lake marks the border between the upper and lower lakes.
Lake Kozjak
Lake Kozjak does not belong in to the group of Lower Lakes as it is the lowest of the Upper Lakes. However, its location and broad shores between the two lakes’ systems means it is convenient for visitors to enjoy a picnic, purchase lunch, or use the facilites (Kozjacka Draga).
Should you decide that you have seen enough of Plitvice Lakes, you can simply walk back to Ticket Office 1 the way you came. Alternatively, you can take the relaxing ferry ride across Lake Kozjak amidst green woodland to the Plitvice Ticket Office 2, then take an electric shuttle bus that runs along the eastern side of the lakes and connects three stops within the park: Stop1 at Entrance 1, Stop 2 near Entrance 2, and Stop 3 at Prošćansko Lake. However, the most rewarding alternative for returning to Entrance 1 from Entrance 2, if capable, is to walk along a lovely 7-8 km bush track around the edge of Lake Kozjac and past the Lower Lakes.
Take time while walking to appreciate conservation values for the protection of unique landscapes and vegetation. Some of the walk along the track is uphill, including stairways, but people of all ages take it in their stride. Cars are not allowed inside the park and must remain in the parking areas.
The Upper Lakes (Gornja jezera) at Plitvice National Park
There are twelve lakes in the Upper Lakes group; Prošćansko, Ciginovac, Okrugljak, Batinovac, Veliko jezero, Malo jezero, Vir, Galovac, Milinovo jezero, Gradinsko jezero, Burgeti, and Kozjak. The difference in elevation between the lowest in the group (Kozjak) and the highest (Proscansko) is about 100 metres.
As indicated, access to the upper lakes is by Ferry across Kozjak lake or by driving to Plitvice Entrance 2. There are some excellent hiking trails around the upper lakes but planning is recommended.
Four other lakes that are reasonably accessible from Kozjac are Galovac, Okrugljac, Proscansko and Gradinsko.
Why the Apparent Difference Between the Lower and Upper Lakes?
The Upper Lakes are fed by the Matica River, its source being near Plitvički Ljeskovac village. These lakes are formed mostly over dolomite. Dolomite differs from the limestone throughout the valleys of the lower lakes in that magnesium replaces some of the calcium in the limestone. The magnesium calcium carbonate of dolomite has a harder composition, is more resistant to acidic erosion, and is less absorbent. A flatter and less precipitous terrain results due to the dolomite’s being more resistant to reshaping. The forest floor is suitable for capturing mulch to enhance growth.
How Plitvice Lakes and Waterfalls Formed
The formation of the lakes at Plitvice are related to the most recent ice age. Ice sheets which covered a significant area across Europe began retreating 18,000 years ago until approximately 6,000 years ago. The glacial meltwater that resulted was recharged under pressure into deep aquifers while at the same time flushing shallower aquifers. Consequently, the flow of ground water was reorganised by large scale changes in the distribution of water and geology. It is thought that features such as the Plitvice lake system is a product of these changes.
Plitvice, as mentioned earlier, sits in a karst landscape, a calcareous terrain formed mainly from limestone and dolomite. These rocks dissolve readily in slightly acidic water. The presence of limestone particularly leads to a recognisable, craggy landscape where the acidic water has etched the limestone over many years. The impacts have also resulted in not only the visible deep gorges and valleys but also the unseen subterranean reservoirs, caves and caverns, and the springs and streams which transport the water underground. It was at Plitvice that the rivers and underground springs surfaced producing a source for the lakes.
The Sources of the Lakes’ Barriers -Tufa and Travertine
The deep circulation of water in the Plitvice region allows for the dissolution of large amounts of carbonate. The primary cation in the carbonate known as limestone is calcium and the most stable form of this carbonate is calcite. Tufa is a variety of limestone, composed predominantly of calcite. The classical formation of this variety of limestone involves the release of carbon dioxide (CO₂) from water supersaturated with carbonates. The gas reaching the surface leads to rapid calcite precipitation. The consequences of the carbon dioxide not being released is discussed on our post describing the subterranean processes at Rastoke.
Tufa forms in rivers or lakes where the water is less turbulent and rates of deposition are lower. The lower rates of deposition leads to Tufa being generally more porous and encrusted with plant fragments, algal layers, or other organic material. This occurs because as the waters disperse through existing tufa barriers, they mineralize and attach themselves to the surface of the tufa with the aid of aquatic plants related to the river. The mosses, larger algae, liverworts and sometimes microphytes such as bacteria become the sites for the calcite precipitation. Over time, the resulting tufa grows and evolves, with layers upon layers of tufa barriers creating the boundaries of lakes or altering the flow of water.
This biological contribution to the formation of tufa distinguishes it from travertine. Travertine is a denser, less porous carbonate rock often associated with bedding. At Plitvice, Travertine is considered a hardened, consolidated form of tufa. In fact, the two terms are often used interchangeably. It is considered that tufa forms the barriers while travertine forms the cascades.
Facilities at Plitvice Lakes National Park
Plitvice has a modern administration area and entrance. Entry into the Park is efficient even in the presence of large crowds.
The park has several open car parks. Parking is plentiful but not free. Some parking is available on a surfaced car park while surrounding parkland serves as an overflow. Travellers must display tickets on their dashboards.
Getting to Plitvice Lakes – The Short Drive from Rastoke
Plitvice Lakes is within the Dinaric karst region. This is not unusual because approximately half of Croatia is covered by the limestone karst. Plitvice sits at an elevation of approximately 450 metres and over many years the landscape has been shaped by water-borne processes. This includes the collapse of some of the uplifted Dinaric limestone which has been undermined by subterranean streams and springs. Various formations carved into the limestone become apparent en route.
The two rivers significant to both Plitvice and Rastoke are the Slunjčica river and the Korana river. The Korana river drains a significant volume of water away from the lakes at Plitvice which then flows to Rastoke. The Slunjčica river originates at the Slunjčica village Spring north of Rastoke. The river then meanders adjacent to Slunj before flowing into the Korana river at Rastoke. Its path into the Korana at Rastoke is splintered into many separate paths.
The D1 highway picks up the Korana river about half way between Rastoke and Plitvice. It has made a significant detour from Rastoke to the east before returning to its originally general north-south direction. The Korana River plays a key role in the Plitvice region’s nature. Apart from the karst geology, the mineralisation of the streams has resulted in the tufa barriers that progressively impede the flow of water producing terraced water ways to complement the waterfalls and cascades. The scene is reinforced by the surrounding green forestry.
The drive between Rastoke and Plitvice along the D1 is only about 34 kilometres and takes 40 minutes. Whereas the road is comfortable to drive, it is not a motorway. Therefore drive with caution, keeping in mind approaching traffic and that some curves in the road have not been straightened out as would be the case of a toll road. The road also seems to be populated with a generous presence of highway police.
Conclusion to Plitvice: Explore Waterfalls and Terraced Lakes From A Glacial Past
In a few words, delightful and certainly worth visiting. This includes the short drive from Rastoke to Plitvice. But don’t be in a hurry to tear through Plitvice National Park even if you are on a Plitvice day trip. Otherwise it will end rather quickly. Linger at each stage.
Take the time to appreciate that it has taken millions of years for natural forces to prepare the venue for your enjoyment. If you take the ferry across Lake Kozjak, consider taking the lovely walk back along the lake. Plitvice is a safe place to visit, although as water and strangers are present everywhere, young children should be kept under close supervision.
Travellers interested in getting to Plitvice by car may like to look at our previous post that describes the road trip from Pula to Rastoke. The drive from Plitvice to Split is the subject of the next post.
The post describing the Plitvice National Park one of several describing our road trip through Croatia. There are still many to come.
A Croatia Road Trip Starting At Rovinj To Must See Destinations
Visit Pula And Its Roman Past On Your Croatian Road Trip
Rastoke For Waterfalls, Watermills And Tranquil Beauty
Plitvice (this post)
