The Croatian road trip which started in Rovinj is now pointing south towards Omis on the way to Dubrovnik from Split. There are many interesting places to visit along the beautiful drives from Split to Dubrovnik. Omis is the first. We have chosen a route that then passes through three other towns with attractions of varying interest – Imotski, Podgora and Neum.
This route starts with a slow drift south to Omis along a scenic coastline that becomes prettier by the kilometer – a reward in itself. Take some time to enjoy what is on offer along the Poljicka Cesta. It is like a lazy, Sunday afternoon summer drive. Soon after leaving Split the ambience is interrupted by the arrival at lovely Omis, located in Central Dalmatia about 25 km southeast of Split.
Omis is a small, historical coastal town where the Cetina River meets the Adriatic Sea. The town is surrounded by limestone and dolomite cliffs and has a population of only 15,000 persons. Omis is known as the ‘pirate town’.
What to See and Do During a Visit to Omis
Just a Day Trip to Omis
If you are contemplating a day trip to Omis, or just passing through on your way further south, then within a few hours you can;
If Staying Longer in Omis
Should Omis capture you so that you plan to stay for a day or two;
However long you plan to spend in Omis, your time will be well spent.
Brief Historical Background of Omis Piracy
The Nerentine Pirates of the Mediaeval
The period of Omis’ piracy was preceded by that of the Narentines, a South Slavic tribe which settled near the Neretva River. The Neretva River flows as a delta into the Adriatic just south of Neum, the partial Serbian enclave within Croatia that provides Serbia with access to the Adriatic. The Nerentines, between the 7th-10th Centuries, were in constant conflict with Venice. The Neretines raided the Venetian trading ships and even forced this larger empire to pay tribute to ensure the safety of the merchants. A detailed description of the Narentine piracy and their eventual defeat by Venice can be read at Narentines
The Emergence of the Omis Pirates
Much to the chagrin of the Republic of Venice, the decline of the Nerentines only saw the subsequent emergence of the pirates from Omis. The Omis pirates were equally effective in controlling the shipping routes, not only attacking the merchant ships from the Republic of Venice, Dubrovnik, Kotor and Split, but also the ships carrying resources to the lands of the Crusades. The Omis pirates were so feared that they induced Dubrovnik and Kotor to make treaties with them, and Venice had to pay tribute to ensure free sailing and trade.
Significant maritime tensions existed during this period of the Mediaeval, primarily between Venice and Hungary, although the Byzantines, Genoa and Dubrovnik were also involved. The conflicts imposed necessity on smaller coastal communities to defend against potential threats and to support their economies. Consequently, piracy was accepted along the coast as legitimate enterprise to generate trade.
The year 1420 brought change to the Adriatic. It was the year when the Republic of Venice, with a navy that eventually massed to three thousand ships, assumed domination of the Adriatic.The Venetian rulership is well documented by the influence of Venetian architecture along the Adriatic coastline. It would continue for a further 400 years. The Omis Pirates, who had ruled the Adriatic Sea for more then three centuries, were no longer the maritime masters of Venice. They resisted for a further 24 years before the end of their piracy.
The following are some of the posts that describe destinations that were influences by the Venerians..
- A Croatia Road Trip Starting At Rovinj To Must See Destinations
- Piran Charms As A Gothic Attraction
- Trogir: What to See In This Captivating Medieval Old Town
- Make Your Visit To Budva Even More Interesting
Omis piracy was facilitated by the natural landscape of the town
The Natural Harbour of Omis
The natural harbour of Omis, with channel surrounded by mountains, made it more than suitable for piracy.
Omis has a protected harbour, and its secluded cove is in the shade of the fortress that was built on the mountain side behind it. The channel from the sea joins the Cetina River which winds itself through the canyon behind the fortress, providing out of sight anchorage. The pirate craft would have been undiscovered from boats within sight of the coastline. A climb, if time permits, to the top of the fortress gives a worthwhile view of greater Omis and the coastline.
Seven hundred years have passed since the exploits of the Omis pirates, yet for all the history that has passed, Omis is still remembered as the ‘pirate town’.
The Dramatic Pirate-Friendly Landscape of Omis
The dramatic Omis coastline and interior canyons has been shaped by the same forces that produced the Dinaric Alps. The karst topography across Croatia, which we have written about in previous posts
- The Drive From Plitvice To Split And A Window On Croatia
- Lovcen National Park With Panoramic Mausoleum And Karst Landscape
- The Village and Hike At Lukomir In The Highlands Of Bosnia
and our following post (coming soon describing Imotski
includes the uplift along the Dalmatian coastline caused by the continental collision between the Eurasian Plate and the Adriatic microplate. The collision compressed and folded the thick sequences of marine carbonates which are now seen along the Dalmatian coast as rugged mountains. Deep synclines also formed which were drowned by the Adriatic. These define the Dalmatian islands that are so enjoyed by tourists and holiday makers. The cliffs, mountains and canyons that surround Omis are evidence of the forces involved.
The Omiš canyon was formed by the Cetina River cutting through the surrounding coastal Paleogene limestone mountains. The canyon’s 8 kilometres length and floor indicates geological erosion rather than glaciation. The cutting of the canyon floor is ongoing because it is more than likely that the tectonic uplift is still occurring. As the canyon is a karst terrain, chemical erosion would be significant over time by processes explained in our posts describing Rastoke and Plitvice. It is worth noting that the canyon is also in a geological zone of clastic material in the form of transported and deposited rocks such as sandstone, shale and conglomerate. The presence of clastic rocks may have influenced the eventual cutting and shaping of the canyon.
The canyon is a classic example of karst geology, which is further pursued in our following post which decribes the karst landscape and sink holes at Imotski. In that post we more fully develop the identifiable features of a karst, such as steep cliffs, caves and underground channels, sinkholes, fissures, subterranean rivers, springs, and their origins.
The source of the Cetina River is a karst spring located in the foothills of the Dinara mountain range in Croatia. Underground drainage systems brought the water from this and other springs to the Cetina River. It is also worth a stopover if in the area of Cetina Spring.
Omis Old Town
Omis, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, has an old quarter that is a maze of limestone alleys and lanes that separate mediaeval buildings constructed from limestone masonry.
Omis is quite small compared to other limestone towns. The old town has its share of attractions and churches like St Peter’s (Romanesque 10th Century) are worth visiting. However, we have chosen to detour around an extensive coverage of the buildings and architecture of Omis old town and instead refer to descriptions of larger old towns along the Adriatic coast which bear the same styles.
- A Croatia Road Trip Starting At Rovinj To Must See Destinations
- Piran Charms As A Gothic Attraction
- Spot The Kotor Architecture Of Churches, Palaces and Buildings
Nevertheless, It is well worth a stroll through the Old Town and to have lunch in a restaurant that occupies one of the small squares.
Mirabela Fortress
One of the fortresses worth visiting is the Mirabela Fortress (also called Peovica). The fort was built in the 13th century and is located directly above the old town. The pirates of Omis used the fort for two major purposes. Firstly, warnings could be raised if unwelcome vessels approached the Omis coast. Secondly, readied pirate ships in the gorge or channel could be alerted to mechant ships in the vicinity. Mirabela is quite accessible by a manageable and short climb up the mountain side behind the old town. The climb is rewarded by panoramic views across the old town to the Omis coastline..
Starigrad Fortress (Fortica)
Starigrad Fortress, commonly called Fortica, is the larger fortress high above Omiš at about 262 meters above sea level. The hike to Starigrad is achievable in about an hour of sensible walking. The fort was built in the 15th century during the Croatian-Ottoman conflicts and provided a refuge and final defensive stronghold against Ottoman invasions. Starigrad is far from its original condition but remains of the watchtower, thick defensive walls and bastion is evidence of how it proved to be a formidable obstacle to taking Omis. The panoramic views from Starigrad are probably more rewarding than the inspection of the fort itself.
Omis Old Town Commercial District
There is, of course, a commercial part of Omis Old Town for tourists and visitors and this occupies the coastal margin, offering all things of interest to shopping, beach and sand. In the photo below, the oldest fortress in Omis, Peovica (13th century) can be seen on the cliff poking above the rooves.
Conclusion to Discover Omis for Pirate History, Coastal Fun And Rugged Landscape
Omis is worth visiting because it offers a different theme and some fun in tracing the pirates’ strategies. An excellent choice for a day visit for the tourist on a schedule or a place to park for a few days to try out the many outdoor activities on offer. Children would love the pirate theme and there are all sorts of merchandise to buy. The town is not expensive, is family friendly, but parking can be a bit tight.
For the more nerdy-minded, Omis offers something different to what you are likely to see. The piracy history is interesting as is the use of the secluded harbour and limestone cliffs which provided undiscovered anchorage. The location of Omis on the edge of the uplift provides plenty of opportunity to seek out its structure and evidence of the forces that were involved. The limestone attractions continue just an hour away. Check out the following post : The Imotski Sinkholes And The Drive From Omis
