Kupari Croatia is a former but now disused military resort which was abandoned in 1991 by the Yugoslav People’s Army during the Croatian War of Independence. The war ruins of abandoned Kupari adjacent to Kupari beach are a vivid reminder that the Yugoslav wars in the Balkans reached along Croatia’s beautiful Dalmatian coast and included a bombardment of Dubrovnik.
Kupari is certainly worth visiting for anyone interested in seeing war damage arising from the conflicts in the Balkans. However, the abandoned resort is a modern contradiction. A low sea wall separates war ruins to one side and peaceful Kupari beach on the other.
Kupari is only a short 10 kilometer drive south of Dubrovnik and along the way there are highway vantage points to stop and enjoy the panoramic views of Dubrovnik. Perhaps you could visit Kupari during your drive to Montenegro.
KUPARI HISTORY
Kupari Before the War
Kupari was originally a resort for Czech society. The grand hotel Kupari offered luxury and comfort to its civic guests since the 1920’s. However, Kupari resort’s patronage changed following World War 2. Kupari became the location for vacations and entertainment for the military elite of the Yugoslav People’s Army. The resort’s original development, which included a sea spa, contributed to its priority for recuperation, particularly for the corps d’elite. Additional hotels were constructed, as were villas and camping areas.Tito, the prime minister of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, ordered the construction of his own villa. However, when the Croatian War of Independence broke out in 1991 (the socialist republics of Slovenia and Croatia declared independence and seceded), the Yugoslav People’s Army abandoned and destroyed their own resort city. Why was Kupari abandoned?
Kupari War
What have been referred to as the Yugoslav Wars were fought broadly across the Balkans during the 1990’s in the form of a series of separate but related ethnic conflicts, wars of independence, and insurgencies. The turbulence contributed to the fracturing and separation of the former Yugoslavia. Two countries which sought independence from Yugoslavia were Croatia and Slovenia. Kupari was associated with Croatia’s war for independence.
The region of Dalmatia is a narrow strip of Croatia bordered to the west by the Adriatic and the east by Serbia. Some inland areas of Dalmatia towards the Dinaric Alps were predominantly populated by Serbs. These areas destabilised western Croatia and in August 1990 established an independent Serb republic. The intention of the newly formed republic was to integrate with Serbia. The revolt was supported by the Yugoslav People’s Army. Croatia responded and by March 1991 the conflict escalated into the Croatian War of Independence. Yugoslavia was by now fragmenting throughout the Balkans and Croatia declared its independence in June 1991. Slovenia joined Croatia in announcing its own independence during the same month.
Kupari Abandoned
The Yugoslav People’s Army considered the subjugation of Dalmatia to be an important military objective. It planned to link the troops deployed for the conquest of Dubrovnik with other troops active in Dalmatia’s north.
The advance on the Dubrovnik region started on October 1 and within weeks only the city itself had resisted falling to the Yugoslav army. The bombardment of Dubrovnik old town drew international condemnation and economic isolation. This response contributed to the retreat of the Yugoslav People’s Army into Serbia. Prior to departure it formed the newly created army of SRPSKA. The Croatian army drove both forces into Serbia. It was during this period that Kupari was consigned to the waste basket.
The navy of the Yugoslav People’s Army was ordered to turn its weapons in the direction of Kupari and fire on it, obstensibly to ensure Croatian troops were not using it strategically. Kupari was going to be abandoned, but not to Croatia. The Kupari elite scattered, the hotels were destroyed, looted and burned and after the complete abandonment by the people’s army the locals skimmed off useful materials such as copper piping and tiles. The Croatian army got to make use of the complex by temporarily occupying the Grand, Goricina and Pelegrin hotels after the war.
Kupari Ruins
The newly formed independent Croatian government chose to leave the ruins from the Kupari bombing as a memorial. The seven abandoned hotels (Grand, Goričina I, Goričina II, Kupari, Pelegrin, Mladost and Galeb, built between 1960 and 1980 with the exception of the Grand) remain as monuments to a four-year war that contributed to the breakup of Yugoslavia. Kupari became home to the Kupari Tourist Complex which operated out of one of the disused military tourist resorts.
KUPARI BEACH
Kupari is now no more than a beachfront behind which are the ruins of the former military resort that has been shot to pieces by the military forces who had enjoyed it.
However, apart from the damage inflicted during the Yugoslav war, Kupari is a now a quiet location. Kupari beach is peaceful and ideal for a swim or a hike around its headlands. The beach is family friendly. A café is located along the beach for some refreshments.
The image below shows Hotel Pelegrin at the end of the beach.
The water at Kupari is clean, warm and inviting. Children enjoy swimming but parents visiting Kupari beach should test the depth first. In some places the water gets quite deep soon after stepping off the sand.
Kupari appears safe to walk around as it has been quite popular with locals for many years. There are some tracks across the headlands which offer some panoramic views across the Adriatic
Parking is free and available on open, natural areas. Alternatively, travellers can park at the adjacent modern beach of Serrano and take the easy path around the headland to reach Kupari. The venue is generally wheelchair friendly.
In all, Kupari beach brings some sanity to the surrounding destruction.
Final Comments : From Kupari Resort to Abandoned War Ruins and Beach
Stretching out on the sand, enjoying the warmth of the sun, having enjoyed a swim at Kupari is almost an unreality. It appears incongruous that the locals enjoy use of Kupari beach seemingly anaesthetised to the destruction behind them.
Should you wish to see some excellent historical images of Kupari then click on the link.
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