A drive from Plitvice to Split is more than just a sorting out of which roads to take and the condition of each. All road trips in foreign countries rely on the scenic views seen from the car to enhance the journey. The drive from Plitvice to Split presents a road trip across Croatia and its natural past. It is an opportunity to experience the changing landscape and the reasons for these changes. It is also an opportunity to visit the national parks and waterways which nature has shaped for our enjoyment, and the delightful coastal towns and villages that dot the Dalmatian coast.
It is impossible as you drive across Croatia to ignore the country’s limestone karst
Karst is a landscape composed of carbonate rock such as limestone, dolomite and gypsum. Each of these varieties are susceptible to dissolution in acidic water. This leads to the recognisable karst features such as grey, craggy terrain, sinkholes, underground streams and caves.
When nearing the Adriatic coast the drive enters a carbonate coastal strip. Uplift provided the conditions for the terrain of the coastline to be drowned. This resulted in the appearance of the now familiar limestone islands, particularly off the coast of Dalmatia.
This description of a road trip from Plitvice to Split therefore primarily focuses on four aspects of the journey. Firstly, the selection of a route. Secondly, a guide to the condition of the roads and surfaces. Thirdly, how the karst landscape changes during the drive across Croatia. And fourthly, a view of some of the lovely Adriatic coast and its coastal towns and villages.
Stages of the Drive from Plitvice to Split
Stage 1 of the Drive from Plitvice to Split: Plitvice to Korenica D1/D429 (25 minutes)
The D1/429 for the drive away from Plitvice to Korenica is decorated on either side by the familiar woodlands of Plitvice National Park. The single carriage road is of good quality with grass verges on both sides, and remains at a constant elevation of about 700 metres. This may sound elevated but as all the surrounding terrain has been uplifted to the same extent, it appears like a road which crosses relatively low lying ground. It isn’t long before the road gives way to flat terrain, bordered occasionally by hills and low mountains. A small forest intrudes itself into the landscape approaching Korenica.
The road is now built over Jurassic carbonates with some sprinkling of volcanic fragments. The creamy/greyish rock is Jurassic limestone. It is a hardier limestone, well cemented and resistant to weathering. Jurassic limestone is sometimes rich is fossils having formed in shallow marine environments on average about 150 million years ago. So, if inclined, stop when convenient and see if you can find a fossil or two. It won’t be easy. And keep your eye on the colour of these rocks and see if you can detect change as you continue your road trip across Croatia.
Stage 2 of the Drive from Plitvice to Split Korenica to Udbina (Still on the D1/D429 – 35 minutes)
The D1/D424 now sits at an average elevation of abut 630 metres and when past Korenica two contrasting landscapes encroach on different sides of the road. To the left there are flat, green plains and rolling hills populated by clumps of low trees and mature bush.
The mountains that can be seen in the background are those of the Lička Plješivica range which forms a natural border in the Dinaric Alps between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. The range is 100 kilometres in length and extends south to Gracac. It is heavily forested and is primarily composed of Jurassic carbonates, limestone and dolomite. The range hosts many of the karst features associated with the Dinaric karst system (see post on Rastoke). The heights of the mountains are consistent along the length of the range with mountain height typically being around 1500 -1600 metres. The highest is Ozeblin (1,657 metres). One very distinctive peak is Troura at 1316 metres.
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Stage 3 of the Drive from Plitvice to Split Ubdina to Interchange of D522/e71 (20 minutes)
Option 1 The Route to Split via Knin
Should your goal be to go directly to Split then an option is to remain on the D1 away from Ubdina. This road drives through the centre of Croatia to Gracac and Knin.
Knin at 218 metres is at the foot of the Dinara mountain massif, the highest point of which is 1831 metres. The massif overlooks the Knin valley. The extensive tectonics and faulting in the area has produced significant folding and tilting of the uplifted beds. And there is also the Fort at Knin to be checked out, perched high on a ridge with outstanding views of the valley. Knin is worth a visit, particularly if you are interested in the geology of landscapes.
This route to Split continues when the D33 is picked up at Knin for the road trip across to Sibenik. The A1/E65 then continues to Split. We are not writing further about this option.
Option 2 The Route to Split via the Coast
The alternate route to Split, the one being described in this post, prioritises getting to the lovely Croatian coast. Once out of Ubdina on the D1 look for the sign to the D522. It is identified on the D1as a route to Lovinac.
The drive across Croatia on the D522 crosses into a landscape of Cretaceous carbonates with assorted clastics in the form of sandstone, conglomerate etc. Cretaceous limestones formed in warm, shallow, high-sea-level oceans on average about 100 million years ago and can appear as white, beige, or towards the reds. They are considered durable, particularly with a higher dolomite content, although fine-grained varieties can be more susceptible to weathering by acidic water. Amidst the limestone the road continues to be decorated with rich vegetation, small trees and what could easily be plantation pine forests in the vicinity of Baste.
The terrain again returns to the omnipresent flat plains interrupted by gently rolling hills, whereas at the Opalic sign
A minor fork in the road ends the road trip on the original D522. The former D522 has been left as a ‘outdoors’ road towards the mountains around Lovinac. The route continues on the new section of the D522 and terminates without much change from the background mountains, hills, plains and roadside vegetation at its interchange with the A1/e71 at Čvor Gornja Ploča.
Stage 4 of the Drive from Plitvice to Split e522/e71 Gornja Ploča Interstage to Posedarje (50 mins)
The A1/e71 (el. 550 metres) is a straight, dual carriage road over flat Jurassic carbonate terrain. However, once on the A1 it is immediately impossible to miss the peak of Mt Zir (850 metres) standing alone is a karst field of Cretaceous carbonates. Zir can be climbed and offers excellent 360 degree views from its peak. The site is accessible from a rest area of the same name off the A1. But no fossils.
Once past Santa Selo the landscape becomes increasingly lumpy with high road cuttings starting to appear on each side of the road, particularly on the approach to the Sveti Rok road tunnel. Until now prominent road cuttings have not been a feature, as the terrain occupied by the road has been mildly undulating at most. The cuttings signal a significant geological fault and the approach to the southern reach of the Velebit range, Croatia’s largest mountain massif, as well as an increase in clastic rock types. Velebit (National Park) stretches 145 km along the Adriatic coast, with a width of up to 30 km. The highest peak is Vaganski vrh (1,757 metres).
The road navigates the Velebit by a series of road tunnels. The first is the longest at 5759 metres – the Sveti Rok = Sjeverni portal Tunela Sveti Rok or Tunnel Sveti Rok. The tunnel enters the Velebit at an altitude of 654 metres, exits at 586 metres and has 1070 metres of the Velebit above it. The road crosses the Jurassic into the Triassic when in the tunnel.
Whe you emerge from the tunnel you are now in the Paleogene group in which the clastics predominate over the limestone. Paleogene limestone has an average age of approximately 50 million years and were formed during a period of turbulent geological and climatic changes. The structure is often laminated with limestone and dolomite interbedded in clays. Stop and take in the karst landscape that you have avoided driving over. You will notice the ruggedness of the karst in the area and so if you feel adventurous take a mountain trail up to the ruins of historical Podprag (Mt Klanac 636 metres) for stunning views.
Further along the A1 is Tunnel Ledenik (768 metres) in the region of Jasenice. You enter the tunnel at an elevation of 454 metres and exits at 445 metres. Mount Ledenik stands adjacent at a modest 575 metres.
As you continue to drive across one of Croatia’s limestone ranges consider also the view to the left the lower plains and undulations. Note also the lake which becomes more prominent as you continue. You shouldn’t be concerned about this section of road. There isn’t any cliff-face driving or steep ascents or descents. No white knuckles. The road is easily navigable.
You now approach a shorter tunnel, Tunnel Bristovad, the cuttings to the tunnel secured by wire netting to capture falling rocks. And then the gentle descent through more Paleogene sequences with the coastal plain clearly in view as you traverse the range to Zelenikovac (near the loop in the road on a map) where the road returns to more customary levels.
The limestone ridges and range can be clearly seen from Bozic running parallel to the road to the right.
The formation continues for some kilometres reinforcing the nature of Croatia’s geology and origins.
Just 4 km southwest of Božić, near the settlement of Maslenica, the A1 crosses the Novsko Ždrilo strait.
When approaching the bridge consider visiting the Paklenica Karst River Canyon, a national park in Croatia. It is a short drive from the A1. Exit to the Rovanjska toll both when approaching the bridge on the A1 and drive to Starigrad to pick up the signs.
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This stage of the road trip across Croatia from Plitvice to Split sounds adventurous, but it isn’t. The excellent engineering in Croatia maintains a relatively constant road elevation even though the topography around it changes.
Stage 5 of the Drive from Plitvice to Split: Posedarje to Zemunik Gornji and the D424 and Sukosan turnoff (30 minutes)
The A1/e71 becomes the e65 at Posedarje. The signs show the options of remaining on the inland e65 to Split via Skadrin, or continuing until to the turnoff to the D424. Either way, we are back on the Cretaceous carbonates.
Option 1 The Route to Split via Skradin
Should you continue down the e65 and remain inland you will have the opportunity to visit the lovely Krka National Park near Skradin. The park is similar to Plitvice with waterfalls, boardwalks and travertine resulting from the same limestone processes that were outlined in our posts about Rastoke and Plitvice. The processes take place in deep canyons, such a Krka canyon. carved into the characteristic v-shape.
Option2 The Route to Split via Zadar or Sukosan
This is the route to the Croatian coast. The town on Sukosan is on a flat coastal plain which is used for crops. At this point you can take any road to the coast, including to Zadar. The back roads are very driveable as seen in this image of the road near Sikovo.
Stage 6 of the Drive from Plitvice to Split: Coastal touring from Sukosan to Split along the Jadranska Magistrata (D8) (2 hrs)
The road along the Croatian coast is named the Jadranska Magistrata (D8). The route is a well maintained single carriage way lined with thick vegetation which has been cut back from the sides of the road. It is a slower route than the inland road through Croatia but offers a welcome change in view. The road hugs the Adriatic coastline and so the sea is always in view One gets a sense that the Croatian coast is just one long swimming pool!.
You will also note the large number of islands opposite the Croatian coast. These are all part of the Croatian Cretaceous karst and are only visible due to sea level changes.
The following descriptions of some of the coastal towns and villages along this section of the Croatian coast are brief at best. And our images that show them are representative only. After all, our goal was to drive this part of Croatia, not stay there. We’ll leave it up to our readers to research any particular venue they like. Very briefly, following are just some of the towns and villages you will pass through and perhaps explore:
Sveti Filip i Jakov
Soon after leaving Sveti Filip I Jacov the road along the Adriatic coast passes the country’s biggest lake, Lake Vrana, near Pakostane. Lake Vrana extends over 30 sq. kilometres. The area is an ornithological reserve.
Once past the lake the road veers inland due to the irregular shape of the coastline. The Sbenski Bridge is crossed approaching Sibenik. Before proceeding, it is always worth popping in on the old town of Sibenik. The road returns to the coast near Rezalište Beach and encounters the Morinje Bridge over the large inland lake when past Brodarica.
The remainder of the road trip from Plitvice Lakes to Split is a relaxing cruise along this section of the scenic Dalmatian coast. All the places driven through are worthy holiday sites and there isn’t any shortage in Croatia of where to spend summer vacations.
Zaboric is just a few kilometres south of Sveti Filip I Jacov. The small coves of Zaboric are crowded with residential dwellings making for a venue that is quieter and family-friendly. As is the case right along the coast, clear blue water invites swimming and snorkelling.. A small dock provides for a smaller number of boats used by the residents.
Grebastica is set deeply into a quiet, small bay and by location offers a very relaxed atmosphere. The waters are almost isolated from direct swells from the Adriatic and so are calm and clear. There are plenty of restaurants and cafes to complement a day trip. Check out the historic Wall of Ostrica, the remains of the old fort to the rear of the settlement and scattered evidence along tracks of prior Roman occupation.
Primosten is larger than many of the settlements around it. It has that almost compulsive appeal due to its location on a peninsula. This is not uncommon along the Adriatic coast, right through to Montenegro and Albania. It is probably one of the most photographed towns in the region and offers the visitor outstanding views, beaches, historical stone streets, wine and balmy evenings.
Marina Kremik offers Primosten a resourced marina embedded within a deep, narrow bay along the shoreline just south of Primosten. The marina is also a base, cramped and seeminlgy overly populated by craft, for holiday travel to the islands around the Adriatic.
Marina is a small harbour town near Trogir where a short inland section of the drive again reaches the coast. Like Grebaštica, the town is situated deep into a narrow bay and offers sheltered swimming spots.
The coastal village of Seget Donji occupies the straight coast just 30 minutes from Split. It marks the limits of the coastal pleasure of the region and prepares the traveller’s mind for the business that comes from entering a built up region.
We pass by the road to Trogir, a city which is itself an architectural museum. We won’t comment on Trogir because the preparation of its post has already begun.
Finally, approach Split with the reintroduction of the uplift that has accompanied you across the Croatian karst.
Conclusion to The Drive From Plitvice To Split And A Window On Croatia
The route that was chosen for the drive between Plitvice and Split showcased Croatia’s changing karst landscape, stunning landscape and diverse terrain. Good road conditions and surfaces were standard. Along the route is opportunity to visit natural attractions such as the Krka National Park. The Jadranska Magistrata is a lovely drive along the scenic Adriatic coastline, passing through inviting coastal towns such as Primosten and Sveti Filip i Jakov.
The road trip through Croatia that started in Rovinj now moves on to Trogir, Just a short drive from Split.
A Croatia Road Trip Starting At Rovinj To Must See Destinations
Visit Pula And Its Roman Past On Your Croatian Road Trip
Rastoke For Waterfalls, Watermills And Tranquil Beauty
Walk Through Plitvice National Park For Waterfalls and Terraced Lakes
This post :
The Drive From Plitvice To Split And Window On Croatiafollo
followed by :
The Mediaeval Coastal Town Trogir
Discover Omis for Pirate History, Coastal Fun And Rugged Landscape
The Imotski Sinkholes And The Drive From Omis
Reference:
Török, Ákos & Vlastelica, Goran & Baloevic, Goran & Grgić, Nikola & Görög, Péter. (2019). Comparative analysis of slope stability: seismic loading and engineering geology; examples from Croatia and Hungary
GEOTECHNICAL CHALLENGES IN KARST
ISRM Specialised Conference / Međunarodna konferencija
Savjetovanje Hrvatskog geotehničkog društva
Omiš – Split, Croatia, 11.-13.04.2019.
ISBN 978-953-95486-8-9.
