The Croatia road trip across the length and breadth of Croatia has been divided into a number of sequential posts. This allows us to explain more completely both the beautiful drive through Croatia and its must see destinations. The road trip starts with the drive to Rovinj, followed by an exploration of Rovinj old town. Additional posts are coming and will be published in succession upon their completion.
What’s Coming on The Croatia Road Trip
Croatia is a ruggedly beautiful country. It is unlike the green countries north of the Alps because its physical attractiveness lies in the limestone formations that dominate its landscapes. These add interest to what may sometimes be long hours of driving between destinations that themselves are varied and engaging. Croatia is a country of old history that even precedes the Romans. Coastal old towns reflect the mediaeval lives and architecture of successive historical periods. Limestone towns and cities are incorporated into the landscapes that surround them. Croatian culture is on display as are the many ways and activities to enjoy the destinations. And of course, the excellent road system that makes the easy transfer from one destination to another during your drive across Croatia is part of the adventure.
Our intention in these posts is to give you a sample of what to expect from a road trip across Croatia and what the destinations offer. The roads and signage are excellent although many roads are tolled. If what we present appeals to you then you can use the internet to identify additional places to visit when you make your own Croatia road trip.
You will need you to bring your licence from your home country and an international driver’s licence. Croatia does not require the purchase of a vignette. Croatia is now party to the Schengen conventions and so it should not be necessary to stop at the border if entering from a Schengen country.
Main Points
- Getting to Rovinj to Start the Croatia Road Trip
- What to See in Rovinj
Getting to Rovinj to Start the Croatia Road Trip
The drive to Rovinj to start the road trip across Croatia can be an adventure in itself. Rovinj is tucked away on Croatia’s north-west Adriatic coast. Most travellers will approach Slovenia from Italy in the west or from Austria in the north and then drive south through Slovenia to cross the border into Croatia.
Getting to Rovinj from Austria via Slovenia or Italy
The route of choice from Austria is the drive south to Villach on the A10. The route follows the Salzach valley which is like driving through a long, deep mountain pass.
The A10 includes the 6.5 kilometre Tauern Tunnel which has been constructed so that travellers can avoid the alpine passes between Austria and the country’s south. The road is tolled and requires a payment additional to the vignette. Information can be found at https://vignetteoesterreich.eu/blog/tauern-tunnel-toll/
The A10 forks at Villach into the A11 and the A2. The A11 heads south-east towards the Austria-Slovenia border and the A2 heads south-west towards the Austria-Italy border.
Continuing the Road Trip Through Slovenia To Croatia
The Austrian A11 motorway is connected to the Slovenian motorway by the Karawanks Tunnel. It is located under the Karawanks mountain range. The tunnel is 7.9 kilometres long between Jesenice and Rosenbach and serves as the border crossing because it straddles both countries. The road is tolled but an additional payment is not required through the vignette system.
Beyond the border the A11 becomes the E61 and continues through Slovenia past Ljubljana to Trieste. You can get a good idea of this route by checking our post describing our Slovenia Road Trip
Getting to Rovinj from Italy
The A2 at Villlach heads south-west where it becomes the excellent A23 when it crosses the Austria-Italy border. The A23 is known as both the A23 Udine-Tarvisio motorway and the Alpe-Adria motorway. The route is 120km long and from the Austrian border passes through Tarvisio and Udine to Palmanova. The Tarvisio-Chiusaforte section hosts a number of tunnels, bridges and viaducts for 42 kilometre along the route.
The A23 forks further south at Palmanova when it intersects the E70 which links Venice and Trieste. Therefore, travellers from either western or northern Italy approach Trieste on the E70. It is a modern multi-lane road but usually very busy.
The routes, the A11 and A2, are equivalent. Both are on excellent roads, albeit toll roads. Allow about 3 hours for journeys of 190 kilometres. It is just a matter of choice whether to drive through Slovenia or Italy. The three countries are in the Schengen zone and so there aren’t any requirements to cross the borders.
Continue South from Italy into Slovenia for the Road to Rovinj
The roads converge onto the H5 in Slovenia. The H5 forks near Koper. The most direct route to Rovinj is the E751 which takes you through the gently rolling hills of the Istrian heartland. Alternatively, those who prefer coastal scenery can opt to drive along the lovely coast of Slovenia. This route is dotted with charming towns and villages, such as Izola, Piran, and Portorož. Whereas the ‘Old Towns’ are comparable to Rovinj due to their headland location, limestone construction, port and history of occupation, each can boast its unique history and atmosphere. You might like to explore these towns and the road conditions in our post; Slovenia Road Trip.
Arrival at Rovinj and the Start of the Road Trip Through Croatia
The attraction of Rovinj Croatia as a worthwhile destination becomes obvious when the picturesque Old Town is first spotted from a distance across the water. You will feel that your visit had already been worthwhile.
Port and Old Town, Rovinj Croatia
Buildings of varying dimensions rise in profile from a rocky headland and prominent above them all is the steeple of St. Euphemia Church. The pretty foreshore and port of Rovinj invites visitors to enter and investigate its Old Town. Inside the limestone old town, narrow, cobbled lanes and small town squares provide pathways through a precinct of packed historical buildings. Visitors encounter vibrant plazas, restaurants and cafes, dense foreshore housing and artisan shops. Various galleries showcase local art – all of which give Rovinj its unique character. It is not by accident that Rovinj is a popular vacation destination because it combines historical allure with a variety of beaches and water sports.
The broader landscape is inherent in Rovinj’s historical background. The organisation of the town around the marina serves notice that this was once a thriving fishing centre. Fish would be caught and then brought to the dock for cleaning and commercial distribution. Rovinj remains an active fishing port although much of the fishing is now recreational.
The small, lovely, natural port has now adapted to commercial priorities. The lengthy, rectangular port foreshore is now crammed with adjacent, closely packed restaurants and cafes which compete for every square inch of space and every tourist. This evolution reflects the broader challenge many historical towns face as they balance preserving their heritage while accommodating contemporary commercial needs.
A Brief History of Rovinj
Rovinj’s history can be traced back to its occupation by the Romans when it was still an island. The Romans were interested in the salt deposits at Sečovlje in Croatia, south of Portoroz. We refer to it in our post describing Portoroz. Several powers followed the Romans. The most influential were the Venetians who brought significant change over a long period. This is hardly surprising given the Venetians were barely a stone’s throw away across the gulf. We have previously written extensively about the impact of Venice on towns and communities along the Trieste Gulf and Adriatic coast so we won’t repeat it in this post. Should you be interested in the impact of Venice’s nearly 400 years of administration ending in 1797, you can check out our posts such as Piran, Kotor and Budva.
- Piran Charms As A Gothic Attraction
- The City Walls, Fortifications and Fortresses of Kotor
- Make Your Visit To Budva Even More Interesting
The most preserved element from Rovinj’s past is, of course, the material from which it was constructed and hence, the styles of its architecture. Rovinj is located in Istria. This region spans northern Italy as represented by Trieste and northern Croatia. Consequently, many structures in Rovinj may have been built from ‘Istrian stone’. The calcium carbonate which constitutes the limestone in the region is unusually dense due to compression of its calcite. The hard, durable and impervious properties of the ‘Istrian stone’ make it ideal for building on the seafront while maintaining the natural colour of the stone.
What to see in Rovinj Before Continuing the Croatia Road Trip
The old town of Rovinj, often compared to Venice due to the style of its architecture, has a fascinating mix of Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical styles. Some of the architectural styles are not always readily recognised.
Connecting Walkways
The Venetian influence is also evident by the narrow streets and connecting walkways between buildings.
Narrow Streets and Lanes
Rovinj Old Town is small and, for the most part, easy to walk through. However, Rovinj Old Town is located on an appreciable slope and the limestone cobbles in some lanes have been worn smooth. This makes the ascent to attractions such as St. Euphemia quite difficult for some and may hinder wheelchair access. It is easy to slip, particularly when descending, so travellers should wear shoes with a good grip. Some travellers use rails fixed to the sides of the pathways to help them both ascend and descend.
Grisia, or as the hosts call it Grizia, is a small street which leads to the Church of St. Euphemia. Grisia is well known for fine arts events that is held each year to which artists from all over Croatia and Europe attend to exhibit. The beauty of this event in Grisia Street is that many academic artists, amateurs and even children display art.
The Church of Euphemia
The principal attraction in Rovinj is found by ascending the limestone cobbles of Grisia to the elevated location of the Baroque-style Church of St. Euphemia. There are many posts available on the web describing the Church of Euphemia, so we won’t add too much to them.
The steeple of St. Euphemia Church drives the romantic notion that Rovinj, without canals, can be compared with Venice. The 60m tower was built during 1654–1680 and atop the tower, serving as a wind vane, is the statue of Saint Euphemia.
Nevertheless, a drive down the Slovenian and Croatian coasts reveals that many of the coastal towns and villages can boast a Venetian steeple. This is expected due to the extensive historical influence the Venetians exerted over the Croatian Coast.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2d/Rovinj%2C_the_Cathedral_of_St._Euphemia.jpg
External Façade of St Euphemia at Rovinj
The facade at St Euphemia at Rovinj is Baroque (1883). One may be excused for thinking it to be Renaissance. The façade certainly has geometric elements which are distributed symmetrically but attention has to be given to the ratios inherent in Renaissance design. In respect of St Euphemia being of Baroque design, the facade is very angular with many rectangular elements. These lack the customary ostentation and extravagance of many baroque churches. It. The appeal of St Euphemia from a Baroque perspective is that it is monumental.
The central portal is vertically positioned beneath the feature, or rose window. Closer images show the coloured glass within what appears to be lead cames. It all assists to draw attention away from the sides of the building to the center, which is indicative of the Baroque. The doorways are surmounted by hood moulding surmounted by scroll corbels.
The tympanum above the central portal has been inscribed. Below the tympanum above the door is a Latin inscription;
Deus oni operatie in suis omnia ipse incepit ipse prefecit.
God is the creator of all things in His creation. He began everything and presided over everything.
One of the major objectives of baroque design was to accentuate light and shadow. The shadows are created by the vertical pilasters, blind arcades and arches. The shadows will creep across the building as the sun moves across the sky, producing an illusion of animation rather than the traditional static effect.
Interior of St Euphemia at Rovinj
The interior of the church is more typically Baroque with substantial ornamentation, religious symbolism and art. The church contains several treasures and works of art, including a painting depicting the martyrdom of Saint Euphemia. There are also Gothic statues from the 15th century and paintings from the 16th and the 17th centuries. The relics of Saint Euphemia are preserved in a Roman sarcophagus from the sixth century (but adapted in the 15th century).
This three-nave church was built from 1725 to 1736 over the remains of older, early Christian structures. The present building is dedicated to Euphemia only. Its façade dates from 1883. The baroque ornamentation of the interior and extravagance of the ceiling would best be viewed through Google Images.
A very comprehensive post about the Church of St. Euphemia can be found at https://www.rovinj-tourism.com/en/discover/art-and-culture/cultural-and-historical-sights/477
Rovinj Town Hall Clock
The Town Hall Clock is located in Tito Square (Trg Marsala Tita) which is adjacent to the harbour.
The Town Hall clock has been reworked several times since its build during the 17th century. The plaque of the Venetian lion, the symbol of Venice, is a Baroque element dating back to mid-19th century. The clock tower can be climbed using an internal staircase.
Balbi’s Arch at Rovinj
The Balbi’s Arch has replaced the Porton della Pescheria (the Fish Market gate) which was pulled down in 1678/79.
The architrave sits above the semi-circular arch, supported by the two lateral columns. A figure can be identified just above the centre of the arch. Above the architrave is a carved head of a Turk on one side and a carved head of a Venetian on the other. The inscription between them relates to the time of building the years of Mayor Daniel Balbi.
The symbol of Venice, the lion, is carved above the inscription. The pediment above the cornice is open, if intended.
The ornamentation of the gate, the scrolling and use of rounded elements all confirm the Baroque style. The tympanum was richly sculptured.
Rovinj City Palace
The palace occupies the former site of the Praetorian Palace which dates to 1308. The upper floor became the City Hall. Again, note the Baroque elements on the façade.
City Gates and Walls
Rovinj was surrounded by protective city walls as was the case of all the coastal cities on the Adriatic. These were begun in the pre-Romanesque years and towers were subsequently added. The style of a section of the wall often indicated the years of its construction.
Additional Activities in Rovinj
Family-friendly, Rovinj offers various amenities and activities suitable for children, making it an ideal destination for families seeking sun, relaxation, and leisure. The beautiful beaches attract visitors eager for outdoor fun and the tranquillity of the sea.
The nearby Rovinj Islands,
Final Thoughts on the Croatia Road Trip Starting at Rovinj
Rovinj’s location makes it an excellent place to start a road trip through all of Croatia. Overall, Rovinj is a picturesque destination, enjoyable as characteristic of a Croatian Old Town. Rovinj offers the charm of its cobbled thoroughfares and narrow avenues, vibrant atmosphere and the ease with which one can enjoy the coastal setting.
The changes that have occurred in Rovinj Old Town attract tourists and secure a measure of financial security have occurred across most coastal towns. These changes will always appear more acute due to the cultural differences between the old and the new. The question will always be how to balance the trade of a unique culture for Western values.
The next destination for our Croatia road trip is Pula, different from Rovinj and just down the road.
